Tuesday, 17 September 2013
We took our Bushnell Trophy Cam HD with us again this year and had much greater success with it than last year. The thrill of taking the trailcam down in the morning and finding not one but two video clips of an African Civet walking right past us in the night was a definite highlight. We have put together a short video with some of the best clips recorded by the trailcam.
If you have enjoyed this short video, please consider making a donation to our fundraising for Save The Elephants by clicking on the Just Giving link on the right.
Next up will be a feline feast...watch this space!!!
Friday, 23 August 2013
Today is our last full day in Kenya this year, so we decided to wander into Nairobi for some souvenir shopping. Most of the little shops and mini-arcades we used to visit were gone, replaced by finance companies, shoe shops and computer shops. The only real souvenir shopping area we could find was the utter rip-off of the Masai Market (where they will try to fleece you out of hundreds of dollars for a penny-worth of tat), so we headed for the Ya Ya Centre. On the second floor we found a very reasonable little souvenir shop and picked up too many things LOL.
After wandering around the Centre looking in all the shops, including an amazing bookshop that we would happily have taken home complete, we went for a coffee on the ground floor at the Doorman's Coffee Shop. Here we found something that has never been seen on the planet before...a piece of chocolate cake that defeated Howard!!!
|The massive slices of cake we tackled in the Ya Ya Centre|
|Karen looks slightly daunted by the task|
|We have a winner!!!...And for the first time in history it is the chocolate cake and not Howard!!!|
Tomorrow morning we have an early start, as we check in for our flight at 5.30am, so we are spending the rest of the day trying to figure out how to get all the souvenirs into our luggage!
See you on the cold side...
Thursday, 22 August 2013
We got up early this morning hoping to catch some of the insects and reptiles around Hunter's Lodge before they were warmed up enough to be too fast to catch on camera. Unfortunately, none of them were up as early as us! After breakfast we had a chat with the gardener, who has been brought in from one of the new owner's other hotels to completely overhaul the gardens and he is doing a very good job. We then drove to the Backpackers in Nairobi, had a shower, some lunch and settled down to finish updating the blog...
We have not had time to decide what we will do in Nairobi tomorrow, which is our last day as we fly home on Saturday.
Once again, Kenya has amazed, enthralled and surprised us in so many ways and we are already thinking about next year's safari.
Our apologies for the delay in getting the blog to you on time but we hope you have enjoyed reading it and that if you have enjoyed it, that you will consider making a donation to our fundraising for Save The Elephants through our "Just Giving" page.
Look out for more photos, videos and anecdotes from this trip in the coming weeks...
Today began in sublime fashion, with the largest herd of Zebra we have ever seen, comprising several hundred, visiting the waterhole at Ngutuni after breakfast. They were very nervous and easily disturbed, which caused many a sudden stampede from the waterhole: this made for some very interesting photographs as they kicked up the dust against the morning sun.
After saying goodbye to the wonderful staff at Ngutuni, we reluctantly headed north again; leaving our beloved Tsavo behind. Having spent three days in luxury, we decided that a night in a tent with just a long-drop toilet should be a last resort and agreed we would see if there were any rooms available in Hunter's Lodge itself.
Now for the history. Hunter's Lodge was built in 1958 by Dennis Hunter in honour of his father J.A. Hunter, a famous white hunter who had been employed in the area by the British Colonial Government after the second world war to clear the area of Black Rhino to enable them to displace and relocate the Kamba people into the area. Hunter turned out to be brutally efficient in this task, killing almost 1100 Rhinos (source: Rough Guide to Kenya by Richard Trillo).
Today the Lodge is a rather run down twelve room stop over, with reasonable food in a lovely setting but tired and dated rooms and facilities. The Lodge has, however, recently been taken over by Mada Hotels, the owners of Fig Tree Camp in the Masai Mara and they have plans for major upgrades. Construction is already well under way on twenty-four additional rooms and a conference centre. Once this is complete, the original lodge will be updated to match the standard of the new facilities. This work is expected to take a further six to nine months; so we will see what things are like when we come back next year.
We spent a pleasant afternoon photographing African Darter, Grey-Headed Kingfisher, Hadada Ibis, Purple Heron and a lone Maribu Stork who wandered right up to our ground floor balcony. We also caught fleeting glimpses of Pied Kingfisher, Monitor Lizard, Yellow Baboon and photographed a troop of Vervet Monkeys who live in the trees around the lodge.
|African Darter drying its wings.|
|A very chilled Vervet Monkey.|
We discovered tonight that the reason our new Safaricom modem dongle has been unable to connect is because our version of the Safaricom software was out of date and therefore, incompatible with the new modem. Unfortunately, having solved this problem, we find ourselves in an area with a very poor mobile internet signal; so you will have to wait until we reach Nairobi tomorrow before we can update the Blog.
We decided after breakfast today to explore the river circuit at Ngutuni as some American students we spoke to at dinner last night told us they had seen Cheetah along there. We had not gone far along the route when we came across a pair of Aardwolf locked in a sexual embrace...literally. Like all canids they lock together during intercourse and can remain locked for some time afterwards, we waited for around half an hour but the pair were still immobilised by their copulatory clinch.
|The ecstasy and agony of Aardwolf love.|
We left them to it and carried on along the circuit Along the way we found another Aardwolf; it was amazing to think that we had never seen Aardwolf before and yet we came across three in one day. When we came back round an hour later the amorous pair were still imprisoned by love; by now they were starting to look a little fed up with the whole experience and somewhat knackered! We bade them fair well and went back to the lodge for lunch. We were surprised to find that we were the only residents for lunch in the lodge, although there was a small touring party. We debated having a second game drive after lunch but as this is our final day of luxury on the trip, we elected to spend the time watching wildlife on the waterhole from our balcony. Some of the more unusual visitors this afternoon included; a female Ostrich who was naturally very wary of the Elephants as she came in to drink, later a large gang of Banded Mongoose invaded the waterhole at speed, leaving just as quickly after a brief visit.
|Aardwolf number three.|
|Mrs Ostrich is very wary of the Elephants.|
|But she does eventually get a drink.|
Tomorrow we head for the KWS campsite at Kiboko near Hunter's Lodge, where we will spend one night in the tent before heading to the Back-packers in Nairobi.
The day began with a lovely breakfast followed by a drive around the Ngutuni Sanctuary, we saw plenty of Elephant, Zebra and Giraffe, we also managed to take picture of the lodge with wildlife in the foreground from the track that runs along the Tsavo East National Park boundary with Nugutuni Sanctuary.
|We had seen this huge bull dominating the waterhole but it was nice to meet him up close.|
|Giraffes and Ngutuni.|
We planned a second game drive for after lunch to explore more of the sanctuary but had to change our plans when the laptop refused to download any more files, with a full hard disk! It seems there is a downside to these super-duper twenty four megapixel cameras; we had to spend the afternoon transferring five hundred plus Gigabytes of image files to a back up hard drive and rebuild the Lightroom catalogues, which took us until well after dinner.
Conscious of our low fuel, we decided to take our time getting up this morning and take a leisurely drive along the Voi River Circuit, where we found a small herd of Gerenuk, including a very energetic youngster, who leapt and bounded around.
|Boing!!!...The little Gerenuk catches some air.|
From there we headed along the Pipeline Road for one last look and came across a pride of five Adult Lions lying under bushes around 90yds from the track. We photographed them for a while and sat back to watch them. Vehicles came and went, as every tour guide for miles around tried to guarantee a good tip. Eventually, when we were alone but for one tour van, the Lions wandered over beside us and spent some time with us before crossing the track and heading into the distance. We felt very privileged that they accepted our presence enough to come and spend time with us.
|Lioness resting in the shade of a bush.|
|Everybody needs hugs!|
|Beautiful Lion Face.|
|The Maneless Male could be a descendent of the infamous "Maneaters of Tsavo"|
|Grooming the King.|
|Standing Watch behind the King.|
After the Lions, it was time to head off. Back at the Voi Gate, we stopped to purchase some souvenirs at the shop and the girl in the shop told us that our Landrover is exactly the same colour as the one the Lion researchers use, so that is probably why they accepted us. She said she has been out with the researchers a few times and the Lions often approach them closely.
From Tsavo East, we headed to Voi for some fuel and then drove round to Ngutuni, where we booked in for three nights. After three nights camping in the bush, we were delighted to be able to have a shower and a cold Tusker!
|Elephant Yoga by the Ngutuni waterhole.|
From our balcony, we watched as more and more Elephants arrived at the waterhole. There were around fifty or more, with huge bulls, sub-adults and several tiny babies. If you want to see pure joy, stick a good waterhole in front of several baby Elephants! What a fantastic sight they were. There were push and pull games, splashing, rolling, piling on top – every Elephant game going. Among the adults, there was some argy-bargy over access to the best drinking water and some of the adolescent males were putting themselves about. One in particular was bullying younger babies until the adults put him in his place.
|Baby Elephants playing in the waterhole.|
|The school bully.|
In the distance, a huge herd of Buffalo sat resting. Some of them came in for a drink and that caused some aggro with the Elephants. There were moments when it looked like a pitched-battle between the Elephants and Buffaloes was about to break out over rights to the waterhole but eventually things calmed down.
Well that's the good and the utterly amazing but what about the bad?
Unfortunately, we do have to mention a couple of incidents which left a sour taste with us today.
As we drove along the Pipeline Road this morning, we spotted two tour minivans around 100 metres off track; something that is illegal in Tsavo East, to protect the fragile environment. As we approached, they sped off: we suspect because they thought the green Landrover might be KWS Rangers coming to sort them out. Their tyre tracks showed clearly that they had driven right up to the Lions, to within less than 3 feet! (you can see the tyre tracks next to the Lioness in the first picture above).
This was not the worst incident of today, however. After we had put our cameras down at Ngutuni this afternoon, many of the Elephants had left the waterhole and we were downloading our images when we heard a load “crack crack”. Looking out from the balcony, we saw a young man in jeans and a blue-hooped shirt standing on the terrace, deliberately clapping his hands loudly in a pattern clearly intended to simulate the sound of semi-automatic gunfire. This had exactly the effect the young braggart was trying to impress his mates (or girl) with: it cause a mad panic at the waterhole, as around fifteen Elephants and several Buffalo and Zebra stampeded into the bush in terror. That was around two hours ago and no animal has come within a thousand yards of the waterhole since. Some people are just a complete waste of DNA.