Janet Goss has been a Facebook friend
of ours for some time, due to our shared interest in conservation and
mutual love of Tsavo East National Park. When Janet realised that we
would be in Kenya at the same time, she suggested we meet for lunch
at Satao Camp, where she was staying and we jumped at the chance to
meet a fellow Tsavo-lover. We decided to kill two birds with one
stone and use the trip to explore an area of Tsavo East we have not
fully covered before; the vast Dika Plains.
With Janet on the viewing platform at Satao Camp |
We began by heading along the Voi River
towards the Aruba Dam, finding Elephants, Dik Dik, Masai Giraffe and
many more birds, including a Bateleur Eagle. Aruba Dam was built by
the first Warden of Tsavo, David Sheldrick, to provide a permanent
source of water that would encourage animals to stay in the National
Park during the dry season, thus preventing them from coming into
conflict with people living on the periphery of the Park. For decades
this worked very well but recent climate uncertainty coupled with
increased use of water from the Voi River has caused the Aruba Dam to
run dry almost permanently.
Masai Giraffe |
The Dried Reservoir of the Aruba Dam |
From there we headed SSE into the Dika
Plains, a vast savannah wilderness, dotted with patches of dry scrub
and small waterholes, most of which were dry. At times the vastness
of the place became hypnotic, until we were awoken by coming across
some interesting wildlife to photograph. One such incident involved a
mirage-like apparition, moving along the track towards us in a deep
heat haze. Although the form was indistinct, the rhythm and gate were
obviously Jackal and we were delighted when it carried on trotting
right up to us, veering slightly at the last moment to continue its
progress a few feet past.
The Jackal |
Another treat the Dika Plains had in
store for us was the family of Dwarf Mongoose, popping in and out of
the ventilation holes of a large Termite mound. We spent several
minutes enjoying their antics before we had to continue our journey
to reach Satao Camp by lunch-time.
We had a lovely lunch with Janet and
all shared stories of our experiences of Tsavo. We discussed the
changes we have witnessed; in our case since 2006 but Janet has been
visiting Tsavo for 20 years, so she has seen a lot more changes. It
was fantastic to meet someone who shares our passion for this
incredible place.
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