After a good night's sleep, we hoped we
had shaken off the fatigue of the hectic two weeks work before
travelling and the long journey. We had a leisurely breakfast and
took a drive along the pipeline road. About half way along, we came
across three Lionesses, not far from one of the waterholes. Another
Lioness and a huge Lion (one of Tsavo's infamous maneless males) were
a long way off on the other side of the road. There were a lot of
Zebra and Kongoni about but the Zebra especially were very wary,
probably because the blustery wind was carrying the scent of Lions.
Occasionally some Zebra would get quite
close to the Lionesses and they would hunker down in stalking
position but none ever got close enough to convince the Lionesses to
charge. At one point, some of the Kongoni got very close and two of
the Lionesses lay so low in the long grass they were invisible,
whilst the other prepared to pounce. However, they must have kept
just enough distance to convince the Lionesses that they would get
away. The Kongoni is a very fast runner, so the Lionesses would need
to be probably within about 20 yards to guarantee a kill. They all
had pretty full bellies too, so we doubt they would have attempted a
kill unless it was a certain success, as they were not hungry. We
spent a couple of hours watching them and in between moments of
interest, we tried to upload yesterday's blog entry but
unfortunately, although there was a weak signal, the data was taking
too long to send and timed out.
One Lioness hunkered down and two invisible in the long grass (click for larger image) |
When we got back to the lodge, we were
both still exhausted and decided to have a nap after lunch and back up
our images, rather than go out for another game drive, then sit on
the tent balcony to watch whatever came to the waterhole.
Whilst we were having our lunch we
watched in amazement as an oblivious young Italian man, who had
arrived less than half an hour earlier, wandered out into the bush,
right out to the waterhole. Just as we both said “What the...?!”,
the barman saw him and called for the Askari, who ran out to bring
him back before he became Lion food or an Elephant football. One of
the great problems faced by people providing access to the wild
places in Africa to Western tourists is the theme park mentality:
some people treat Africa like it is some kind of a giant Disney theme
park, completely oblivious to the dangers. They put themselves and
the locals charged with looking after them in mortal danger through
their ignorance. Thankfully this time there was a happy ending.
Later, when we were sitting watching
the world go by, a large bull Elephant came in to to the waterhole
but it was dry. The Camp has a water pump that refills the waterhole
from a borehole but the pump only comes on when the Camp generator is
operating, so there was no water being pumped into the waterhole. The
Elephant decided he would try to restart the pump himself and ripped
off the cover, throwing it away. He then picked up the 60kg pump and
threw it across the ground: clearly Elephants resort to percussive
maintenance too! The Askaris shooed him away before he could
completely destroy the pump.
The angry bull rips the cover off the water pump before throwing it away |
He makes himself look as big as possible to intimidate the askaris |
The guys have to retrieve and fix the water pump after the bull has gone |
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